®t|F  i.  m.  aUtll  HJibrarg 


North  CCarnltna  *tat?  Imoprattg 

N81 


TEX.  LIB. 


■M 


uck  sill^ 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  DATE 
INDICATED  BELOW  AND  IS  SUB- 
JECT TO  AN  OVERDUE  FINE  AS 
POSTED  AT  THE  CIRCULATION 
DESK. 


MOV  2 


OFC  2  0  Mss 


BRANXII    ul-    THE    MULRKRRV    TREE— SHOWING    l^ERRIES. 


SILK 


Its  Origin^  Culture ^  and 
Manufacture 


Illustrated  From  Photographs   Taken  at 

The    Corticclli   Silk   Mt//s 


Price,    Ten   Centa 


Copyrighted  i8qs  and  igo2  by 

THE    NONOTUCK    SII^K    COMPANY 

Florence,    Massachusetts 

All  Rights  Reserved 


Contents. 


PAGE 

To  All  Teachers, 3 

Publisher's  Note, 4 

The  Discovery  and   Introduction   of  Silk,     ....  5 

The  Silkworm, 13 

Reeling  the  Silk  from  the  Cocoons, 29 

How  Silk  is  Manufactured, 33 


To  All   Teachers. 


No  more  gratifying  reception  was  ever  accorded  a 
text-book  than  has  been  given  this  little  work  on  the 
origin,  culture,  and  manufacture  of  silk.  First  pub- 
lished in  1895,  the  sale  of  the  book  has  truly  been 
remarkable. 

In  presenting  this  revised  and  enlarged  edition, 
which  we  have  made  to  include  the  story  of  the 
manufacture  of  silk,  it  is  our  desire  to  thank  the 
thousands  of  teachers  in  the  best  and  largest  schools, 
academies,  and  colleges  throughout  the  country  for 
their  many  kind  words  of  appreciation,  and  to  assure 
them  we  are  always  ready  to  assist  in  securing  the 
specimens  necessary  to  a  proper  presentation  to  their 
pupils  of  this  most  interesting  subject.  Presuming 
that  many  will  take  advantage  of  our  offers  as  out- 
lined on  pages  51,  53,  55,  and  57,  we  invite  corre- 
spondence, and  questions  will  be  cheerfully  answered 
if  a  two  cent  stamp  is  inclosed  for  reply. 

CoRTicELLi  Silk  Mills,  Florence,  Mass. 


Publisher's  Note, 


A  growing  demand  from  teachers  and  others  for  a 
reliable  and  concise  book  of  information  on  silk  cnl- 
ture,  has  prompted  the  preparation  of  this  little 
pamphlet. 

It  is  distinctly  an  educational  work,  embracing  as 
it  does  the  most  interesting  facts  gathered  from  the 
experience  of  years  of  scientific  and  practical  study 
devoted  to  the  rearing  of  this  wonderful  insect.  We 
may  be  pardoned  in  thinking  that  perhaps  none 
better  than  the  Corticelli  Silk  Mills  could  undertake 
the  publication  of  such  a  work,  since  for  over  sixty- 
three  years  the  products  of  these  famous  mills  have 
been  the  recognized  standard  of  the  silk  thread  workl. 

The  fine  half-tone  engravings  were  made  from 
photographs  of  the  Corticelli  Silkworms  taken  from 
life.  We  believe  them  to  be  the  first  American 
photographs,  and  the  most  truthful  reproduction  of 
silkworm  life  in  existence.  The  entire  contents  of 
this  booklet,  including  all  the  photographs,  are 
protected  by  copyright,  and  must  not  be  copied  or 
reproduced. 

Corticelli  Silk  Mills. 


The  Discovery  and 
Introduction   of  Silk. 


The  history  of  silk  starts  with  Hoang-Ti,  the  third 
Emperor  of  China,  who  charged  his  wife  and  queen, 
Si-Ling-Chi,  to  examine  the  silkworms  and  test  the 
practicability  of  using  the  thread  from  the  cocoons. 
In  her  zeal  she  collected  large  numbers  of  the  worms, 
fed  them  herself,  and  discovered  how  to  reel  the  silk 
and  to  make  it  into  garments.  This  was  about  1700 
B.  C. ,  and  for  her  discovery  she  was  deified,  so  the 
Chinese  records  say,  and  ever  since  has  been  known 
as  the   "  Goddess  of  Silkworms." 

The  wild  silkworms  or  allied  species  were  found  in 
vSouthern  or  Eastern  Asia,  inhabiting  the  jungles  of 
India,  Pegu,  Siam,  and  Cochin  China  ;  but  the 
cocoons  were  used  only  for  carding  and  spinning, 
very  much  as  spun  silk  is  now  produced.  Meanwhile 
the  Chinese  kept  their  method  of  obtaining  the  silk 
a  profound  secret  for  nearly  two  thousand  years. 
They  gave  the  silk  to  the  Persians,  who  for  one  thou- 
sand years,  without  knowing  how  or  from  what  it 
was  made,  carried  it  to  the  Western  Nations. 


Aristotle  was  the  first  European  to  learn  the  true 
origin  of  the  wrought  silk  brought  to  him  from  Persia 
on  the  return  from  that  country  of  Alexander's  victo- 
rious army.  He  described  the  silkworm  as  a  "horned 
insect,  passing  through  several  transformations,  which 
produced  'bombykia,'  "  as  he  called  the  silk.  How- 
ever, for  five  hundred  years  after  this  time  the  com- 
mon theory  of  the  origin  of  silk,  among  the  Greeks 
and  Romans,  was  quite  different,  since  they  had 
confounded  the  production  of  silk  with  that  of  cotton. 

In  Aristotle's  time  Pamphile  and  her  associates  in 
the  Island  of  Cos  (the  modern  Zea  in  the  ^Egean  Sea) 
had  imported  raw  silk  from  Persia,  and  unraveling  it 
had  woven  a  silken  gauze,  which  from  its  transpar- 
ency was  called  "woven  wind."  Soon  the  Roman 
ladies  followed  her  example,  substituting  for  silk  fine 
threads  of  linen  or  cotton  for  the  weft  or  filling,  and 
before  long  it  became  in  great  demand.  The  Roman 
emperors  arrayed  themselves  in  costly  silken  gar- 
ments, and  soon  laws  were  passed  restricting  its  use 
to  the  nobility  and  to  women.  The  Emperor  Aure- 
lian  is  said  to  have  refused  his  empress  a  silken  robe 
on  the  ground  of  its  great  costliness. 

In  the  sixth  century  A.  D. ,  all  the  raw  silk 
was  still  being  imported  from  China,  by  way  of 
Persia,  when  the  Emperor  Justinian,  having  engaged 
in  war  with  Persia,  found  his  supply  of  raw  silk  cut 
ofif  and  the  manufacturers  in  great  distress.      No  one, 


Gathering  Mulberry  Leaves. 


on  pain  of  death,  was  allowed  to  export  the  silkworm 
eggs  from  China,  bnt  Jnstinian  bribed  two  Nestorian 
monks  to  return  to  that  country,  and  in  555  they 
came  back  bringing  with  them  a  quantity  of  silk- 
worm eggs  concealed  in  the  hollow  of  their  pilgrim's 
staves.  The  industr\-  now  spread  rapidly  over  Greece 
and  Syria,  into  vSpain  in  711,  into  Sicily  and  Naples 
in  the  twelfth  century,  reaching  Italy  in  the  six- 
teenth, and  France  in  the  seventeenth  century. 

For  centuries  the  tinest  and  richest  silks  were 
woven  only  for  the  church,  tlie  nobilit\-,  and  the  most 
wealthy  knights  ;  Persia,  China,  and  the  countries  to 
the  far  East  producing  magnificent  hand  embroidered 
specimens,  the  results  of  years  of  patient  labor. 

Silk  culture  in  America  started  in  1622,  when 
James  I.  sent  silkworm  eggs,  mulberry  trees,  and 
printed  instructions  to  \'irginia,  but  the  attempt  was 
not  successful.  In  1735  eight  pounds  of  silk  were 
exported  from  Cxeorgia,  and  se\en  hundred  pounds  in 
1758,  and  over  ten  thousand  pounds  (seventy-five 
thousand  dollars  worth)  in  1759. 

Connecticut  began  to  rear  silkworms  in  1760,  and 
for  eighty-four  years  this  state  led  all  others  in  the 
amount  of  silk  produced.  Soon  after  1769  Pennsyl- 
vania, New  Jersey,  New  York,  Rhode  Island,  and 
Massachusetts  became  interested  in  the  industry,  but 
during  the  Revolution  it  was  given  up,  and  was  not 
revived    until    1826,  when    a   most  determined  effort 


CoRTicELLi  Silkworms— Six  and  Ten  Days  Old. 
9 


was  made  to  place  silk  growing  on  a  paying  basis. 
For  ten  years  all  went  well  ;  several  states  offered 
preminms  and  bonnties,  silk  societies  were  formed, 
and  new  machinery  was  invented  and  put  into  opera- 
tion. But  soon  a  disturbing  element  was  introduced; 
a  great  effort  w^as  made  to  supplant  the  white  mul- 
berry [Monts  alba)^  on  the  leaves  of  which  the  worms 
had  been  fed,  by  the  so-called  Chinese  mulberry,  the 
Moms  inulticaiilis^  on  account  of  the  superior  quali- 
ties claimed  for  it.  A  sudden  infatuation  seized  the 
people,  speculation  began,  and  prices  advanced  far 
beyond  their  real  value. 

Since  1830  Florence,  Mass.,  had  been  identified 
with  the  silk  culture  movement,  and  the  whole  sur- 
rounding country  soon  caught  the  fever,  and  as  the 
excitement  increased  acres  of  mulberry  cuttings  and 
trees  w^ere  planted.  Then  in  1839  came  the  crash. 
The  bubble  had  burst,  bringing  ruin  to  thousands  of 
persons,  and  inulberr>-  twigs  which  had  been  worth 
nearly  their  weight  in  gold  could  not  be  sold  for  ten 
cents  a  hundred.  A  severe  winter  killed  most  of  the 
trees,  giving  the  industry  a  final  blow. 

The  company  at  Florence  gave  up  silk  growing  for 
a  few  years,  but  the  manufacture  of  Corticelli  Silk, 
started  in  1838,  was  continued,  and  from  that  day  to 
this  the  products  of  the  famous  Corticelli  Silk  Mills 
have  always  enjoyed  an  enviable  but  well  earned 
reputation  for  superiority. 


Silkworms  adout  Eighteen  Days  Old. 
11 


CoRTiCELLi  Silkworm  Eating. 


FULl 


The    Silkworm. 


The  wonderful  insect  that  makes  tlie  silk  is  the 
larva  of  a  small  moth  called  Scricaria  mori.  This 
moth  is  classed  with  the  Lepidoptera^  or  scaly  winged 
insects,  faniih-  B omby cider ^  or  spinners.  This  spe- 
cies of  caterpillar  is  commonh-  called  the  Mulberry 
Silkworm.  First  reared  in  China,  it  is  now  exten- 
sively cultivated  in  China,  Japan,  Italy,  France,  Spain, 
and  other  Einopean  countries.  Owing  to  the  greater 
value  of  labor  here,  the  United  States^cannot  compete 
with  these  countries  in  the  production  of  raw  silk. 

The  silkworm  has  become  domesticated,  since, 
during  the  long  centuries  in  which  it  has  been  culti- 
\ated,  it  has  acquired  many  useful  peculiarities. 
Man  has  striven  to  increase  its  silk  producing  power, 
and  in  this  he  has  succeeded,  for,  by  comparing  the 
cocoon  of  the  silkworm  of  to-day  with  its  wild  rela- 
tions, the  Corticelli  cocoon  is  found  to  be  much 
larger,  even  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  worm 
that  makes  it  or  the  moth  that  issues  from  it.  The 
moth's  loss  of  the  power  of  flight,  and  the  white 
color  of  the  species  are  probably  the  results  of  domes- 
tication. 

13 


The  silk  moth  exists  in  four  states  —  ^gg,  larva, 
chrysalis,  and  adult.  The  egg  of  the  moth  is  nearly 
round,  slightly  flattened,  and  closely  resembles  a 
turnip  seed.  When  first  laid  it  is  yellow,  soon  turn- 
ing a  gray  or  slate  color  if  impregnated.  It  has  a 
small  spot  on  one  end  called  the  micropyle,  and  when 
the  worm  hatches,  which  in  our  climate  is  about  the 
first  of  June,  it  gnaws  a  hole  through  this  spot. 
Black  in  color,  scarcely  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
length,  covered  with  long  hair,  with  a  shiny  nose, 
and  sixteen  small  legs,  the  baby  worm  is  born, 
leaving  the  shell  of  the  ^gg  white  and  transparent. 

Small  and  tender  leaves  of  the  white  mulberry 
[Moi^us  albd)^  or  osage  orange  {Machira  auj'antiaca\ 
are  fed,  the  young  worm  simply  piercing  them  and 
sucking  the  sap.  Soon  the  worm  becomes  large 
enough  to  eat  the  tender  portions  between  the  veins 
of  the  leaf.  In  eating  they  hold  the  leaves  by  the 
six  forward  feet,  and  then  cut  off"  semi-circular  slices 
from  the  leaf's  edge  by  the  sharp  upper  portion  of 
the  mouth.  The  jaws  move  sidewise,  and  several 
thousand  worms  eating  make  a  noise  like  falling  rain. 

The  Corticelli  worms  are  kept  on  small  trays. 
Every  morning  an  attendant  carefully  transfers  the 
worms  on  one  tray  to  another,  on  which  is  a  clean, 
white  paper.  In  this  way  the  worms  are  kept  clean. 
In  foreign  countries  the  leaves  are  placed  beside  the 
worms,  or    upon  a  slatted  or  perforated    tray  placed 


j^<:^fc^ 


How    THE    CORTICEIJJ    SILKWORMS    ARE    REARED. 

15 


above  them,  and  those  that  crawl  off  are  retained, 
while  the  weak  ones  are  removed  with  the  old  leaves. 
The -worms  breathe  throngh  spiracles,  small  holes 
which  look  like  black  spots,  one  row  of  nine  down 
each  side  of  the  body.  They  have  no  e}-es,  bnt  are 
qnite  sensitive  to  noise,  and  if  you  rap  upon  the  table 
they  stop  eating  and  throw  their  heads  to  one  side. 
They  are  velvety,  smooth,  and  cold  to  the  touch,  and 
the  flesh  is  firm,  almost  hard.  The  pulsation  of  the 
blood  may  be  traced  on  the  back  of  the  worm,  run- 
ning towards  the  head. 

The  worm  has  four  molting  seasons,  at  each  of 
which  it  sheds  its  old  skin  for  a  new  one,  since  in  the 
very  rapid  growth  of  the  worm  the  old  skin  cannot 
keep  pace  with  the  growth  of  the  body.  The  periods 
between  these  different  molts  are  called  "ages," 
there  being  five,  the  first  extending  from  the  time  of 
hatching  to  the  end  of  the  first  molt,  and  the  last 
from  the  end  of  the  fourth  molt  to  the  transformation 
of  the  insect  into  a  chrysalis.  The  time  between  the 
"  molts  "   varies  with  the  species  of  worm. 

When  the  worm  molts  it  ceases  eating,  grows 
slightly  lighter  in  color,  fastens  itself  firmly  by  the 
ten  prolegs,  and  especially  by  the  last  two,  to  some 
object,  and  holding  up  its  head  and  the  fore  part  of  its 
body  remains  in  a  torpid  state  for  nearly  two  days. 
For  a  day  or  two  previous  to  molting  a  dark  spot. is 
noticed  just  above  the  nose  of  the  worm,  from  which 

i6 


Coc<)<,)x  Begun— Silkworm  Nearly  Hidden  from  View, 
17 


the  head  emerges  apparently  renewed.  In  molting 
the  old  skin  breaks  at  the  nose,  the  head  is  pnshed 
out,  and  the  worm  bv  wrioo-Hnor  and  twistin<^  oradu- 
ally  works  the  old  skin  back  from  segment  to  seg- 
ment until  entirely  cast  off.  Weak  and  feeble,  it 
gains  strength  by  resting,  and  then,  freshened,  sup- 
ple, and  hungry,  goes  to  work  eating  again  with 
renewed  vigor  and  apparently  determined  to  make  up 
for  lost  time. 

By  each  successive  molt  the  worm  grows  lighter, 
finally  becoming  a  slate  or  cream  white  color,  and 
the  hair,  which  was  lono-  at  first,  m-aduallv  dis- 
appears.  Two  days  after  the  third  molt,  when  the 
worm  is  fifteen  days  old,  it  is  three  quarters  of  an 
inch  long,  and  just  after  the  last  molt  it  is  one  and 
a  fourth  inches  long.  If  its  growth  seemed  rapid 
before,  it  is  as  nothing  compared  to  its  growth  now. 
In  six  days  it  grows  from  one  and  a  fourth  to  two 
inches  in  length,  and  in  three  days  more  becomes 
fully  three  inches  in  length.  It  is  an  interesting  fact 
that  nearly  or  quite  three  fourths  of  the  silk  the 
worm  spins  is  made  or  secreted  in  these  last  two  or 
three  days.  However,  at  all  ages  and  times  the 
worm  secretes  silk  with  which  to  protect  itself  from 
injury,  for  when  in  danger  of  falling  it  instantly 
fastens  a  silken  thread  to  whatever  it  ma\'  be  stand- 
ing upon.  In  case  of  accident,  the  worm  uses  this 
thread,  which  is  strong  enough  to  sustain  its  weight, 

iS 


Completed  Corticelli  Cocoon, 
19 


as  a  ladder  to  go  either  up  or  down.  In  ascending 
the  tliread  is  wound  around  its  foreleg's  to  shorten  it. 
When  the  worm  is  \oung  the  thread  is  so  fine  as  to 
be  almost  in\-isible,  yet  it  is  alwa\-s  strong  enough  to 
sustain  the  worm. 

Having  attained  full  growth,  the  worm  is  ready 
to  spin  its  cocoon.  It  loses  its  appetite,  shrinks 
nearly  an  inch  in  length,  grows  nearly  transparent, 
often  acquiring  a  pinkish  hue,  becomes  restless,  seeks 
a  quiet  place  or  corner,  and  moves  its  head  from  side 
to  side  in  an  effort  to  find  objects  on  which  to  attach 
its  g-uy  lines  within  which  to  build  its  cocoon.  The 
silk  is  elaborated  in  a  semi-fluid  condition  in  two 
long,  convoluted  vessels  or  glands  between  the  pro- 
legs  and  head,  one  upon  each  side  of  the  alimentary 
canal.  As  these  vessels  approach  the  head  they  grow 
more  slender,  and  finally  unite  within  the  spinneret, 
a  small  double  orifice  below  the  mouth,  from  wdiich 
the  silk  issues  in  a  glutinous  state  and  apparently  in 
a  single  thread.  The  gummy  liquid  which  combines 
the  two  strands  hardens  immediately  on  exposure  to 
the  air. 

The  worm  works  incessantly,  forcing  the  silk  out 
by  the  contraction  of  its  body.  The  thin,  gauze-like 
network  which  soon  surrounds  it,  gradiudh-  thickens, 
until  in  twenty-four  hours  after  beginning  to  spin  the 
worm  is  nearly  hidden  from  view.  However,  the 
cocoon  is  not  completed  for  about  three  days. 


Cocoons  as  Spux  by 


X    BY    SILKWORMS    IN    A    BUNDLE    OF    STRAW. 


The  cocoon  is  tough,  strong,  and  compact,  com- 
posed of  a  firm,  continuous  thread,  wliich  is,  however, 
not  wound  in  concentric  circles,  but  irregularly  in 
short  figure  eight  loops,  first  in  one  place  and  then 
in  another.  The  motion  of  the  worm's  head  when 
starting  the  cocoon  is  ver\-  rapid,  and  nine  to  twelve 
inches  of  silk  flow  from  the  spinneret  in  a  minute, 
but  later  the  average  would  be  about  half  this  amount 
per  minute. 

The  silk  secretion,  on  account  of  its  transparency, 
is  sometimes  used  for  snells,  the  tough,  sinew-like 
cords  bv  which  fishhooks  are  attached  to  lonorer  lines, 
and  in  foreign  countries  large  numbers  of  worms  are 
annually  used  for  this  purpose.  When  the  worm  is 
ready  to  spin,  after  being  steeped  in  strong  chemicals, 
the  silk  glands  are  taken  from  its  body,  and  are  dex- 
terously drawn  out  to  the  desired  length.  One  silk 
gland  is  usualh'  sufficient  for  two  and  sometimes  for 
three  fishhooks. 

The  color  of  the  worm's  prolegs  before  spinning 
indicates  the  color  the  cocoon  will  be.  This  varies 
in  different  species,  and  may  be  a  silvery  white, 
cream,  \ellow,  lemon,  or  grreen. 

When  the  worm  lias  finished  spinning,  it  is  one 
and  a  quarter  inches  long.  Two  days  later,  by  a 
final  molt,  its  dried-up  skin  breaks  at  the  nose  and  is 
crowded  back  off  the  body,  revealing  the  chrysalis,  an 
oval  cone  one  inch  in  length.      It  is  a  liglit  vellow  in 


Moths  Emerging  from  Corticelli  Cocoons. 


CoRTicELLi  Cocoons  from  which  the  Moths  have  Emerged. 

23 


Two  Silk  Glands  Taken  from  Onk 
CoRTicELLi  Silkworm. 


together 
legs 


CORTICELLI  Silk  Snells. 


color,  and  inimedi- 
atelv  after  iiioltin<r 
is  soft  to  the  touch. 
The  ten  prolegs  of 
the  worm  have  dis- 
appeared, the  four 
wings  of  the  future 
moth  are  folded  over 
tlie  breast 
with  the  six 
and  two  feelers,  or 
antennie.  It  soon 
turns  brown,  and 
the  skin  hardens 
into  a  tough  shell. 
Nature  provides  the 
cocoon  to  protect 
the  worm  from  the 
elements  while  it 
is  being  transformed 
into  a  chrysalis,  and 
thence  intothe  moth. 
With  no  jaws,  and 
confined  wnthin  the 
narrow  space  of  the 
cocoon,  the  moth 
has  some  difficulty 
in    escaping.      After 


24 


two  or  three  weeks 
the  shell  of  the  chrys- 
alis bursts,  and  the 
moth  ejects  against 
the  end  of  the  cocoon 
a  strono-lv  alkaline 
licjuid  which  mois- 
tens and  dissolves 
the  hard,  gummy 
lining.  Pushing 
aside  some  of  the 
silken  threads  and 
breaking  others,  with 
crimped  and  damp 
wings  the  moth 
emerges  ;  and  the 
exit  once  effected, 
the  wings  soon  ex- 
pand and  dry. 

The  escape  of 
the  moth,  however, 
breaks  so  many 
threads  that  the  co- 
coons are  ruined  for 
reeling,  and  conse- 
quently, when  ten 
days  old,  all  those 
'not  intended  for  seed 


M. 


t-^^ 


Male  Corticklli  Moth. 


-I^ICS^.- 


Female  Cokiicelli  Moth. 


•    •       • 


•  ••  ».     « 


••     •  • 
•  ••    .  • 


Eggs  of  the  Silkworm  Moth. 
25 


are  placed  in  a  steam  heater  to  stifle  the  chrysalis, 
and  the  silk  may  then  be  reeled  at  an}'  future  time. 

The  moths  are  cream  white  in  color.  They  have 
no  months,  bnt  do  have  eyes,  which  is  just-the  reverse 
of  the  case  of  the  worm.  From  the  time  it  begins  to 
spin  until  the  moth  dies,  the  insect-  takes  no  nonrish- 
ment.  The  six  forward  legs  of  the  w^orm  become  the 
legs  of  the  moth.  Soon  after  mating  the  eggs  are 
laid. 

The  male  has  broader  feelers  than  the  female,  is 
smaller  in  size,  and  quite  active.  The  female  lays 
half  her  eggs,  rests  a  few  hours,  and  then  lays  the 
remainder.  Her  two  or  three  days'  life  is  spent 
within  a  space  occupying  less  than  six  inches  in 
diameter. 

One  moth  lays  from  three  to  four  hundred  eggs, 
depositing  them  over  an  even  surface.  In  some 
species  a  gummy  liquid  sticks  the  eggs  to  the  object 
upon  which  they  are  laid.  In  the  large  cocoon 
varieties  there  are  full  thirty  thousand  eggs  in  a 
single  ounce  avoirdupois.  It  takes  from  twenty-five 
hundred  to  three  thousand  cocoons  to  make  a  pound 
of  reeled  silk.  Do  you  wonder  that,  centuries  ago, 
silk  was  valued  at  its  weight  in  gold? 

Silk  growers  in  the  United  vStatcs,  by  working 
early  and  late  ever}^  day  during  the  season,  which 
lasts  from  six  to  eight  weeks,  could  scarcely  average 
fifteen  cents  for  a  dav's  labor  of  ten  hours. 


Reeling  the  Silk  from  Corticelli  Cocoons. 


Book"  of  Corticelli  Raw  Silk,  Containing  20  Skeins. 


Reeling   the   Silk 
from   the    Cocoons. 


Reeling  the  silk  from  the  cocoons  is  not  often  done 
in  the  United  vStates,  and  the  Corticelli  method  differs 
slightly  from  that  practiced  in  foreign  conntries. 
Most  of  the  raw  material  which  is  imported  comes 
already  reeled  ready  for  the  mannfactnrer. 

Tlie  cocoons  are  first  assorted,  those  of  the  same 
color  being  placed  by  themselves,  and  those  of  fine 
and  coarse  textnre  likewise.  The  ontside  loose  silk 
is  then  removed,  as  this  cannot  be  reeled,  after  which 
the  cocoons  are  plnnged  into  warm  water  to  soften 
the  "gnni''  which  sticks  the  threads  together.  The 
operator  brnshes  the  cocoons  with  a  small  broom,  to 
the  straws  of  which  their  fibers  become  attached,  and 
then  carefnlly  nnwinds  the  loose  silk  nntil  each 
cocoon  shows  but  one  thread.  These  three  operations 
are  called  ''soaking,"  "brushing,"  and  "cleansing." 

Into  each  of  two  compartments  in  the  basin  of 
warm  water  below  the  reel  are  placed  four  or  more 
cocoons,  according  to  the  size  of  the  thread  desired. 
The  threads  from  the  cocoons  in  each  are  gathered 
together  and,  after  passing  through  two  separate  per- 


forated  agates  a  few  inches  above  the  surface  of  the 
water,  are  brought  together  and  twisted  around  each 
other  several  times,  then  separated  and  passed  upward 
over  the  traverse  guide-eyes  to  the  reeh  The  trav- 
erse moves  to  and  fro  horizontally,  distributing  the 
thread  in  a  broad  band  over  the  surface  of  the  reel. 
The  rapid  crossing  of  the  thread  from  side  to  side  of 
the  skein  in  reeling  facilitates  handling  and  unwind- 
ing without  tangling,  the  natural  gum  of  the  silk 
sticking  the  threads  to  each  other  on  the  arms  of  the 
reel,  thus  securing  the  traverse. 

The  fiber  of  the  cocoon  is  somewhat  finer  at  the 
beginning,  thickens  at  the  point  of  forming  the  more 
compact  part,  and  then  very  gradually  diminishes  in 
diameter  until  it  becomes  so  fine  as  to  be  incapable 
of  standing  the  strain  of  reeling.  This  is  because  the 
silk  from  one  of  the  worm's  two  glands  is  exhausted, 
leaving  but  one-half  the  original  fiber. 

When  one  of  the  threads  breaks  or  the  end  of  one 
cocoon  is  reached,  the  reeler  takes  a  fresh  one,  and 
with  thumb  and  forefinger  dexterously  twists  its 
end  around  the  running  thread,  of  which  from  that 
moment  it  becomes  a  constituent  part. 

Imported  raw  silk  comes  in  skeins  of  from  one  to 
several  ounces,  packed  into  bundles  called  "books," 
weighing  from  five  to  ten  pounds.  In  China  and 
Japan  the  books  are  usually  sold  in  bales  varying 
from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  sixty  pounds. 

30 


/ 


\ 


How  Silk  is  Manufactured. 


The  Corticelli  raw  silk  is  first  assorted,  according 
to  the  size  of  the  fiber,  as  fine,  medium,  and  coarse. 
The  skeins  are  put  into  canvas  bags  and  then  soaked 
over  night  in  warm  soapsuds.  This  is  necessary  to 
soften  the  natural  gum  in  the  silk,  which  had  stuck 
the  threads  together  on  the  arms  of  the  reel.  Follow- 
ing the  soaking,  the  skeins  are  straightened  out  and 
hung  across  poles  in  a  steam-heated  room,  as  shown 
in  the  accompanying  photograph.  When  the  skeins 
are  dry,  they  are  ready  for  the  first  process  of  manu- 
facturing. The  room  we  now  step  into  is  filled  with 
"winding  frames,"  each  containing  two  long  rows 
of  "swifts,"  from  which  the  silk  is  wound  on 
to  bobbins.  The  bobbins  are  large  spools  about 
three  inches  long.  The  bobbins  filled  with  silk,  as 
wound  from  the  skeins,  are  next  placed  on  pins  of 
the  "doubling  frames";  the  thread  from  several 
bobbins,  according  to  the  size  of  the  silk  desired,  is 
passed  upward  through  drop  wires  on  to  another 
bobbin.  Should  one  of  the  threads  break,  the  "drop 
wire  "  falls,  which  action  stops  the  bobbin.  By  this 
ingenious  device    absolute  uniformity  in  the  size  of 

33 


Corticelli  silk  is  secured.  The  "doubling  frame" 
is  shown  in  one  of  the  photographs,  and  another 
photograph  shows  an  enlarged  view  of  this  frame, 
giving  an  idea  of  the  four  sections,  on  each  of  which 
are  running  nine  bobbins. 

The  bobbins  taken  from  the  "doubling-  frame" 
are  next  placed  on  a  "spinner."  Driven  by  an 
endless  belt,  at  the  rate  of  over  six  thousand  turns  a 
minute  the  bobbins  revolve,  the  silk  from  them  being 
drawn  upward  on  to  another  bobbin.  This  spins 
the  several  strands  brought  together  by  the  "doub- 
ling process"  into  one  thread,  the  number  of  turns 
depending  on  the  kind  of  Corticelli  silk — Filo  silk 
being  spun  quite  slack,  and  ^Machine  Twist  just  the 
reverse. 

A  transferring  machine  combines  two  or  three  of 
these  strands ;  two  for  sewing  silk  and  three  for 
machine  twist  ;  and  the  bobbin  next  goes  on  to  the 
"twisting  machine  "  — ^  a  machine  that  is  similar  to  a 
"spinner,"  but  the  silk  is  twisted  in  the  opposite 
direction  from  the  spinning. 

The  great  advancement  made  in  the  manufacture 
of  silk  at  the  Corticelli  Silk  Mills  is  well  illustrated 
by  the  pictures  on  pages  41  and  43  respectively. 
The  first  of  these  is  a  machine  on  which  in  reality  two 
processes  are  accomplished  simultaneously,  namely, 
doubling  and  spinning — while  the  machine  shown 
on    page    43    "transfers"     and     "twists"    the    silk 

34 


Q-    C 

^    Q 

O  U 


as  w 

U    Oh 


2   -c 
:/:■  h 


automatically.  To  stand  before  these  machines  and 
watch  how  rapidly  and  how  accurately  they  do  the 
work  assigned  them  is  a  revelation.  No  one  realizes 
how  nicely  the  parts  are  adjusted.  If  but  one  tiny 
strand  breaks  that  part  of  the  machinery  is  stopped 
by  an  electrical  dex'ice  which  works  instantaneously 
and  the  operator  then  repairs  the  broken  fiber.  As  a 
result  only  perfect  silk  can  be  made.  You  see,  Corti- 
celli  is  simply  another  name  for  perfection. 

After  twisting,  the  silk  is  stretched  by  an  ingenious 
machine  called  a  "water-stretcher."  This  smoothes 
and  consolidates  the  constituent  fibers,  giving  an 
evenness  to  Corticelli  silk  not  to  be  obtained  by  anv 
other  known  process.  The  bobbins  are  placed  in 
water  and  the  silk  wound  on  to  the  lower  of  the 
two  copper  rolls.  From  the  lower  roll  it  passes 
uj)ward  to  the  upper  roll,  which  turns  faster  than  the 
lower  one,  thereby  stretching  the  silk.  From  the 
upper  roll  it  passes  again  on  to  a  bobbin,  onh'  to  be 
again  reeled  off  into  hanks. 

The  dyeing  process  is  a  very  important  one,  and 
upon  its  success  depends  the  permanency  of  the 
various  colors.  The  Corticelli  dye  house  is  a  model, 
and  the  results  that  come  from  it  are  the  achievement 
of  years  of  scientific  investigation  and  experimenting. 
Vast  tubs,  tanks,  and  kettles  surround  }ou  on  ever}' 
side,  and  the  hissing  steam  seems  to  spring  from  all 
quarters.     The  "gum"   of  the  silk  is  first  boiled  out 

36 


^.  f  If 


Enlarged  View  of  Doubling  Frame,  Showing  Drop  Wirf  Dfxuf 

THAT     INSURES    THE    PERFECTLY    EVEN    Si;^E    OF    ALL     CoRTICELLI    8ILK.' 


by  immersion  in  strong  soapsuds  for  about  four  hours. 
The  attendants,  standing  in  heavy  "clogs"  (big 
shoes  with  wooden  soles  two  inches  thick), 
the  sticks  at  intervals 
until  the  gum  is  re- 
moved. After  the 
silk  is  dyed  it  is 
put  into  a  "  steam 
stretcher,"  a  de- 
vice looking  like 
a  long,  narrow 
box  with  a  cover 
opening  on  the  side, 
set  upright  on  top  of 
an  iron  cylinder.  The 
hanks  of  silk  are  placed 
upon  two  pins  in  the  steam 
chest,  the  cover  fastened,  and 
the  live  steam  rushes  in  around 
the  silk  —  at  the  same  time  the 
silk  is  stretched  by  a  downward 
motion  of  the  lower  pin,  which  is  worked  by  steam 
power.  This  brightens  the  silk,  giving  it  the  lus- 
trous, glossy  appearance  noticeable  in  all  Corticelli 
goods.  The  silk  comes  from  this  machine  quite  stiff, 
and  the  hanks  are  next  placed  on  the  "stringer," 
which  twists  the  hank  first  in  one  direction  and  then 
in  the  other,  as  one  would  ring  out  water.       There  is 

38 


Spinning  Corticelli 
Silk 


no  water  in  the  silk,  however,  bnt  this  action  makes 
the  silk  smooth  and  soft.  Many  of  the  machines 
used  by  this  company  are  of  their  own  invention,  pat- 
ented and  controlled  b}'  them,  which,  together  with 
the  experience  of  over  sixty-three  years  in  silk  manu- 
factnring,  enables  th^m  to  produce  silk  goods  of  nn- 
eqnaled  quality  and  of  exceptional  luster  and  brillianc}'. 
From  the  large  skeins  the  silk  is  again 
wound  on  to  bobbins,  and  then  spooled,  balled, 
coned,  braided,  or  skeined,  according  to  the  kind 
of  silk  and  the  use  for  which  it  is  intended. 

Rows    of 
girls,  seated 
at  the  rap- 
idly   re- 
volving 
spindles 
of  the 
spooling 
machines, 
change   the 
big  bobbins  to 
loo-yard  spools  of 
Corticelli  Spool  Silk  — 
"Best  Twist,''   as  reads  the 
legend  in  red  and  blue  on  the 
end    of    the     spools.       One     of 
the  accompanying  illustrations  shows  a  young  lady 


Twisting  Corticelli 
Silk. 


spooling  ounce  spools  of  white  Corticelli  ^lachine 
Twist.  The  balling  machine  is  equally  interesting, 
as  one  watches  sixteen  empty  wooden  spools  trans- 
formed as  if  by  magic,  in  less  than  three  minutes, 
into  sixteen  symmetrical  balls  of  Corticelli  Crochet 
Silk. 

Then  comes  the  labeling  and  the  boxing,  and  the 
goods  are  taken  to  the  stock  room,  where  huge 
shelves,  arranged  in  tiers,  are  filled  high  with  silk  of 
every  description,  from  the  very  finest  OOO  to  the 
coarsest  size,  and  from  the  tinv  spools  of  Corticelli 
Buttonhole  Twist  to  the  big  ounce  spools  of  Corti- 
celli Machine  Twist.  From  the  stock  room.,  are 
shipped  each  da\-,  to  the  eight  wholesale  city  sales- 
rooms of  this  company,  case  after  case,  packed  snugly 
with  neat  boxes  all  filled  with  spools  or  skeins  of  silk, 
which  find  their  way  into  the  stores  of  nearly  every 
merchant  in  the  land. 

The  various  uses  made  of  silk  are  truly  wonderful. 
vSome  of  the  ones  not  generally  known  are  here 
given.  The  electrician  uses  it  for  insulating  wires 
for  the  incandescent  lamps,  for  filaments  within  the 
same,  carbonizing  it  for  this  purpose;  the  surgeon  to 
tie  arteries  and  sew  together  cuts  in  the  flesh,  and  to 
cover  silk  cloth  with  gum-tragacanth  for  adhesive 
and  non-poisonous  plasters  for  wounds  and  abrasions; 
the  dentist  to  clean  betw^een  the  teeth  and  tie  the 
pellicle    in  filling;  the    bookmaker    to    tie    his   little 


DOUBLIXG    AND    SPIXXIXG    CORTICELLI    SILK— DOWX    SVSTEM. 


fancy  booklets  and  cards;  the  snrveyor  to  calcnlate 
the"  cnrve  of  tlie  earth;  and  the  fisherman,  to  stiffen 
his  rod  by  winding,  or  to  snell  the  hook  with  which 
he  deceives  the  wary  fish. 

The  variety  of  goods  made  at  the  Corticelli  Silk 
Mills  is  a  snrprise  to  almost  every  one.  Corticelli 
spool  silk  is  of  conrse  a  familiar  object  in  every 
household,  as  few  indeed  are  the  workbaskets  that  do 
not  contain  one  or  more  of  these  lOO-yard  spools. 
Besides  this,  there  is  the  Corticelli  machine  twist, 
crochet  silk,  knitting  silk,  lace  silk,  filo  silk,  Persian 
floss,  Roman  floss,  rope  silk,  etching  or  outline  silk, 
twisted  embroidery  silk,  buttonhole  twist,  dental  floss, 
surgeons'  silk,  darning  silk,  and  underwear  silk. 

Perhaps  one  of  the  most  enormous  uses  to  which 
the  product  of  the  Corticelli  ]\Iills  is  put,  is  that  of 
embroidery  and  art  needlework.  It  is  a  truly  femi- 
nine accomplishment,  sometimes  even  excelling  an 
artist's  brush  in  the  exquisite  workmanship  displayed. 
Corticelli  embroider}'  silk  ranks  first  in  popular  favor 
for  this  work,  not  only  on  account  of  its  smoothness 
and  luster,  but  for  its  absolutely  fast  color.  The  per- 
fection of  the  multitudinous  colors,  and  almost  inde- 
finable gradations  of  hue  enable  the  embroiderer  to 
shade  the  petals  so  as  to  closely  imitate  the  real 
bloom  of  the  flowers. 

To  meet  a  growing  demand  from  teachers,  students, 
schools,  and  museums  interested  in  instructing  chil- 


TWISTIXC    CORTICELI.I    SiLK— DOWN    SVSTKM. 
4.^ 


dren  how  silk  is  made,  this  company  has  prepared  a 
"Silk  Culture  Cabinet/'  This  is  a  wonderfully  in- 
teresting case,  substantial!)-  made  and  niceh-  finished, 
and  shows  ever\-  step  in  the  culture  of  this  wonderful 
insect.  It  contains  small  bottles,  hermeticalh-  sealed, 
with  the  eg^s  of  the  moth,  and  the  silkworms  in 
different  stages  of  development,  from  a  few  da\s  old 
to  the  full  grown  worm;  also  the  chrysalis,  the  moth, 
cocoons,  and  specimens  of  reeled  and  manufactured 
silk.      These  cabinets  sell  for  two  and  a  half  dollars 


CoRTicELLi   Water  Stketcher 
44 


apiece,  and  so  great  is  the  desire  for  them  from  insti- 
tutions all  over  the  country,  that  the  company  can 
hardly  supply  the  demand.  The  value  of  the  cabinet 
is  apparent  at  once  to  anyone  interested  in  education, 
and  many  of  the  largest  and  best  schools  in  the  country 
have  already  secured  one  of  them  to  place  in  their 
museums.  To  accompany  the  cabinet  is  a  Teachers^ 
Silk  Culture  Chart,  which  is  intended  to  hang  on  the 
wall  of  the  schoolroom.  This  sells  for  a  nominal 
sum.  Together  they  make  it  possible  for  anv  teacher 
to  give  an  object  lesson  of  exceeding  interest  to  all 
children. 


RliELING    CORTICELLI    SiLK    INTO    SKEINS    TO    SEND    TO    THE    DYE    HOUSE. 

45 


The  quantity  of  raw  silk  used  each  \ear  1)\-  the 
Corticelli  ]\Iills  can  scarcely  be  comprehended.  ^  Fig- 
ures almost  lose  their  meaning.  Briefly  and  approxi- 
mately stated,  three  thousand  cocoons  will  yield  one 
pound  of  silk  fiber  about  seven  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  in  length ;  and  as  one  thousand  pounds  are 
used  daily  by  the  Xonotuck  Silk  Conipau)'  in  the 
manufacture  of  Corticelli  silk  thread,  it  follows  tliat 
the  product  of  three  million  cocoons  is  required, 
yielding  an  aggregate  length  of  seven  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  miles  of  cocoon  fiber  to  operate  the 
mills  one  da}-.  About  one  hundred  cocoon  fibers 
are  required  to  make  medium  thickness  sewing  silk, 
hence  the  daily  product  of  Corticelli  Silk  ]\Iills  is 
about  seven  thousand  fi\-e  hundred  miles  of  finished 
silk  thread  —  enough  to  girdle  the  world  in  three 
and  one-third  days. 

Many  attempts  have  been  made  to  find  a  substitute 
for  silk,  especially  for  sewing  purposes.  Cotton 
thread,  in  imitation  of  silk,  is  sold  under  various 
names,  but  vegetable  fiber  becomes  worthless  if  mil- 
dew from  dampness  gets  in  its  work,  whereas  silk  is 
in  its  element  when  wet,  as  the  following  incidents 
prove  :  In  1874  a  silk  mill  was  totally  destroyed  by 
the  breaking  of  the  Williamsburg,  ^Massachusetts, 
reservoir  dam,  and  sewing  silk  was  scattered  for  miles 
below,  and  has  been  plowed  up  by  farmers  frequently 
since    and   found    to   have   its   orig^inal   strenoth.      A 


47 


tangled  mass,  weighing  several  pounds,  was  found  in 
1 901,  having  been  twent\'-seven  years  in  the  mud  at 
the  bottom  of  a  mill  pond.  After  washing  and  dry- 
ing, the  color  (black)  was  good,  its  luster  fair,  and  its 
strength  unimpaired.  Manufacturers,  tailors,  dress- 
makers, and  women  everywhere  should 
ll  ml      pi'ofit    bv     this     hint.       In    fact    it    is 


Stringing  Corticelli  Silk. 
48 


mst] 


"penny-wise  and  ponnd- 
foolisli ' '  to  nse  poor  ma- 
terial in  a  needle  for  any 
purpose,  and  the  growing- 
popularity  of  Corticelli 
Silk  indicates  increasing 
wisdom  of  the  people  on 
this  subject. 

Corticelli  Silk  holds  the 
world's  record  for  supe- 
riority, having  won  40 
Highest  Awards  at  the 
Expositions  held  in  the 
United  States  and  abroad 
since  1838.  Wherever  ex- 
hibited Corticelli  Silk  has 
always  taken  the  Highest 
Award.  At  the  Pan- 
American  Exposition  h.eld 
at  Buffalo,  1901,  the  jury 
gave  4  Gold  Medals  to 
Corticelli.  This  was  the 
largest  number  of  highest 

awards  given  to  any  exhibitor  for  variety  or  quality  of 
silk  goods.  The  ])eautiful  booth  of  the  Corticelli  Silk 
Mills  situated  in  the  Manufacturers'  and  Liberal  Arts 
Building  was  visited  daily  by  thousands  of  women. 

On  one  of  the  following  pages  is   shown   a  small 


Steam  Fixisher. 


engraving  of  the  Corticelli  Silk  Mills.  From  a  close 
examination  of  this  illustration  one  realizes  how  ex- 
tensive are  these  great  factories  that  make  the  silk 
that  supplies  so  many  of  our  homes.  A  great  change 
has  taken  place  in  the  silk  industry  during  the  last 
fifty  years.  Silk,  once  regarded  as  a  luxury,  is 
now  considered  a  necessity,  and  no  one  concern  has 
done  more  to  make  this  possible  than  the  Corticelli 
Silk  Mills. 


1    Mi.K  OX  Spools. 


Teachers'  Silk  Culture    Cabinet. 


This  engraving  gives  an  accurate  idea  of  the 
Corticelli  Silk  Culture  Cabinet  originated  and  intro- 
duced by  us.  It  is  made  of  cherry,  handsomely 
finished  and  varnished,  with  glass  top  sealed  to  prevent 
dust  getting  inside.  The  cabinet  measures  5X12 
inches  and  contains  the  following  handsomely 
mounted  specimens  :  — 


1  Eggs  of  the  Silkworm  Moth.      (Sericaria  Mori.) 

2  Silkworm  10  days  old.      Preserved  in  Alcohol. 

3  Silkworm  20  days  old.      Preserved  in  Alcohol. 

4  Silkworm  30  days  old.      Preserved  in  Alcohol. 

5  Chrysalis.      Preserved  in  Alcohol. 

6  Cocoon,  pierced  by  escaping  moth. 

7  Moth,  mounted  by  latest  improved  process. 

8  Cocoon  as  spun  by  Silkworm. 

9  Cocoon,  floss  removed,  ready  for  reeling. 

10  Skein  of  Raw  vSilk  ready  to  manufacture. 

1 1  Spool  of  Corticelli  Best  Spool  Silk,  size  A. 


The  cabinet  is  of  convenient  size  to  be  examined 
by  members  of  the  class  and  by  its  use  each  step  in 
the  culture  of  silk  can  be  easily  explained.      Suffice  it 


to  say  that  we  have  sold  hundreds  of  these  cabinets 
to  many  of  the  best  schools,  academies,  and  colleges  of 
this  country  and  in  every  case  they  have  given  entire 
satisfaction. 

1^°^  Caution  :  Several  imitations  of  this  cabinet, 
which  contain  cheap  specimens  of  no  scientific  value, 


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are  offered  for  sale  by  unscrupulous  dealers.  Remember 
we  are  the  originators  and  are  the  only  firm  making 
the  genuine  "Teachers'  Silk  Culture  Cabinet.''  We 
will  consider  it  a  favor  if  our  friends  will  report  to  us 
the  names  of  any  agent  or  dealer  offering  for  sale  one 
of  our  Teachers'  Cabinets  under  a  different  name. 
Such  infringements  will  l)e  prosecuted  promptly. 
The  price  of  the  Cabinet  is  $2.50,  express  charges 
to  be  paid  by  the  purchaser. 

CoRTicRi^Li   Silk   Mills,  Florence,  Mass. 
53 


How  provoking  it  is  to  use  silk  that  's  constantly  breaking !  Use 
Corticelli  Spool  Silk  and  sewing  will  become  a  pleasure.  Any  sewing 
for  which  you  use  silk  at  all  deserves  good  silk.  As  Corticelli  costs 
YOU  no  more  than  poor  silk,  why  not  ask  for  the  best  ? 

If  your  dealer  does  not  keep  Corticelli  Silk  it  is  because  he  prefers 
to  make  a  little  more  money  selling  some  inferior  kind.  Do  not  accept 
substitutes,  but  go  to  some  store  where  you  can  get  "Corticelli"  — 
the  Dressmaker's  Favorite  Spool  Silk. 

CORTICELLI   SILK    MILLS,    Florence,    Mass. 

J^^  A  ho  Tuakers  of  Corticelli  Filo  Silk,  Crochet  Silk,  and  Purse  Twist. 


lb  ivi^  a  %  1 . 

r          ^            CORTICELLI    SILK. 

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Teachers'    Silk  Culture   Chart 

This  chart  has  seventeen  engravings  showing  the 
different  steps  in  the  cultnre  of  silk.  Printed  on 
heavy  coated  cardboard  with  reinforced  top  and 
bottom  and  cord  for  hanging  to  schoolroom  wall. 
Price,  20  cents,  carefnlly  packed  in  pasteboard  tnbe 
for  mailing,  or  will  be  sent  by  express,  charges  to  be 
paid  by  purchaser,  for  12  cents.      Address 

CoRTicELLi   Silk  Mills,  Florence,  Mass. 


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^ 


^yi)fticeUiy  SEWING 

^- -^  Silk 

The  best  silk  is  the  most  economical.  One  of  the 
secrets  of  the  superiority  of  Corticelli  Silk  over  all  other 
kinds  is  because  nothing  but  the  choicest  selected  and  best 
long  fiber  Corticelli  raw  silk  is  used  in  its  manufacture.  The 
result  is  a  perfectly  even,  smooth,  and  round  silk  thread  of 
great  strength.  As  unscrupulous  dealers  often  offer  you 
substitutes,  careful  shoppers  will  please  remember  to  always 
specify  "Corticelli"  when  buying  spool  silk. 

CORTICELLI    SILK    MILLS,    Florence.    Mass. 


Box  of  Two   Corticelli  Cocoons. 

For  those  who  want  samples  in  addition  to  the 
Teachers'  Silk  Culture  Cabinet  and  Silk  Culture 
Chart  we  furnish  two  cocoons  spun  by  genuine 
Corticelli  Silkworms  packed  in  a  neat  little  box. 
These  boxes  make  very  attractive  souvenirs  and  many 


scholars  are  onl>-  too  glad  to  buy  these  to  take  home. 
Teachers  will  please  notice  that  we  make  a  special 
offer  on  orders  for  large  lots.  Each  box  contains  two 
cocoons.  Price,  by  mail,  postpaid,  i  box,  5  cents;  10 
boxes,  40  cents  ;   25  boxes,  75  cents. 

C0RTICK1.L1  S11.K  Mills,  Florence,  Mass. 


Wash  Embroidery  Silk 

For  fancywork  and  art  needlework  Corticelli  Wash  Embroidery 
Silk  is  the  best  silk  made.  Every  color  is  dyed  absolutely  fast  and 
our  guarantee  goes  with  every  skein. 

Corticelli  Filo  Silk. 

For  the  fine  and  delicate 
shading  of  flowers, 
leaves,  and  conventional 
designs  on  any  smooth, 
closely  woven  material, 
especially  linen,  use  Cor- 
ticelli Filo  Silk.  Made 
in  over  350  fast  colors. 
Corticelli  Persian  Floss,  a  loosely  twisted  silk  of  medium  size 

used  for  finishing  the  edges  of  centerpieces  and  doilies. 

Corticelli    Roman    Floss  is    intended    for   embroidering  large 

designs  on  heavier  material.     Curtains,  counterpanes,  and  cushions 

are  worked  with  this  thread,  although  for  very  bold  designs  Corticelli 

Rope  Silk  is  preferable. 

Corticelli  Etching  or  Outline  Silk  is  a  fine,  hard  twisted  silk, 

and,  as  its  name  implies,  is  for  outline  embroidery  and  etching. 

Corticelli  EE  Twisted  Embroidery  Silk  is  best  suited  for  gen- 
eral fancywork.     This  silk  is  quite  hard  twisted  and  is  very  durable. 

Corticelli  Mountmellick  Embroidery  Silk  is  made  in  four 
sizes,  F,  FF,  G,  and  H.  It  is  a  silk  of  special  spin  and  twist.  The 
sizes  F,  FF,  and  G  are  furnished  in  shades  of  White,  and  177,  179, 
538,  540,  644.8,  645,  and  794.  Size  H  is  supplied  in  shades  of 
White  and  Delft  Blue  794  only. 


58 


Dressmaking  Made  Easy 

C^  SF 

J^c^elli   SE 


If  you  use 


SPOOL 

SEWING 

LK 


Corticelli  Silk-is  too  strong  to  break,  isevenlytwislod.  lias  no  knots,  no  kinks.no  short  mtasure.      1 
use  for  hand  or  machine  sewing  brings  delight  instead   of.  despair.      Cheap  iilk  ii  clear  al  any  price. 
your  dealer  does  not  keep  Corticelli  go  to  some  other  store.     It  will  pa/  you  to  do  so.     Send  for  oi 
•■  Sprtng  and  Summer  Costume  Booklet."   Just  out.    New  styles.    Profusely  illustrated.    Free  for  a  posta 

CORTICELLI   SILK   MILLS,  26  Brid^'c  Street,  Florence,  Mass. 


Purse  Twist 


A  three-cord  thread  of  special  spin  and  twist,  smooth  working 
and  of  great  durability.  For  purses,  chatelaine  bags,  opera  bags, 
and  other  crocheted  articles  it  cannot  be  excelled. 


Made  in  the  following  colors: 


Lily  r;ray,  No.  137. 
Crimson  Rose,  No.  637, 
Black,  No.  900. 
Blue,  No.  904. 
Navy  Blue,  No.  911. 
Purple  Blue,  No.  914- 5- 
Seal  Brown,  No.  966. 


Canary,  No.  9S2.  i. 
Olive  Green,  No.   1002.5. 
Bronze  Cireen,  No.   icxx^ 
Nile  Green,  No.  1016.  i. 
Orange,  No.  1054.5. 
Scarlet,  No.  1061. 
Cardinal,  No.  1062. 
Cardinal,  No.  1063. 


Garnet,  No.  1065. 
Old  Rose,  No.  1098. 
Gray,  No.  1164. 
Slate,  No.  ii72-3- 
Grav,  No.   1189.  i. 
Blue  White,  No^  1 190 
Cream  White,  No.    11 


Put  up  on  long  black  spools  with  the  name  "  Corticelli  "  on 
the  end.  Purses  made  of  genuine  "Corticelli"  Purse  Twist  will 
last  a  lifetime.  Don't  let  some  clerks  substitute  an  inferior  brand. 
Insist  on  having  what  you  call  for;  if  one  dealer  does  not  keep  it, 
go  to  another  store.     Price,  50  cents  a  spool. 

CORTICELLI    SILK    MILLS,    Florence.    M^lss. 


SPOOIy     3II^K 


Besides  Corticelli  Spool  Silk  we  make  the  best  Machine  Twist, 
Buttonhole  Twist,  Stitching  Silk,  Crochet  Silk,  Knitting  Silk,  Purse 
Twist,  and  all  varieties  of  Wash  Embroidery  Silk.  When  ordering 
any  of  these  goods  always  ask  for  Corticelli.  If  one  dealer  does 
not  keep  it,   go  to  another  store.     Questions  cheerfully  answered. 

CORTICEI/I/I    SII.K    MII<I,S,         Florence,   Mass. 


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I 


Crochet  and  Knitting  Silli 


♦^ 


THOSE  who  crochet  or  knit  know  how  important  it  is  to 
obtain  the  best  silk.     Corticelli  Crochet  and  Knitting 
►  Silk  is  a  perfect  silk,  as  it  is  made  from  the  best  raw  silk,    ^ 

I  is  even  in  size  and  twist,  smoothly  finished,  and  is  dyed  in  abso- 
^  lately  fast  wash  colors.  It  is  made  in  two  sizes  and  is  put  up  on 
y  neat  balls  each  containing  one  half  an  ounce  of  pure  silk.  No. 
[  300  is  the  more  popular  size  for  all  kinds  of  crochet  work  and  is 
^  furnished  in  a  large  variety  of  colors,  while  No.  500  is  finer  in 
h  size  and  is  supplied  in  black  and  shades  of  white  only.  When  * 
I  buying  silk  for  crocheting  or  knitting  always  ask  for  "  Corticelli."  *: 
k  « 

62 


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